Unofficial Lost Vape Grus (Quest Chipset)

Discussion in 'Suggestions' started by mixHup, Oct 14, 2020.

  1. Dalaimoc

    Dalaimoc New Member

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    I had the same problem. I thought I overheated the 510 while soldering, but it was the red cable blocking the springloaded plus connector.
     
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  2. LoRaider

    LoRaider New Member

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    Thanks again for the great support on this forum.:):D
    The red cable was in the way of the 510,:confused: exactly like you described it.;)
     
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  3. BuzZ3953

    BuzZ3953 New Member

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    (Edit: Sorry forgot to say awesome work and glad you are still at it :))Geez, I just got my Grus because I couldn't wait to get my hands on the Ursa and love it. I haven't used AF since the Wismec Predator was released and although I have a soldering iron and the things required I am awful at soldering and the mod needs to be taken apart and pins shorted to flash? Thank you in advance. Really not sure if I can tackle this one. PS> If anyone makes the required cable I'd buy it but that would be cheating ;).................I looked at the pins I don't think there is a way in hell with my eyes and hands the way they are I will have any chance of not destroying multiple cables :confused:
     
    #143 BuzZ3953, Feb 20, 2021
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2021
  4. I'mNotARobot

    I'mNotARobot New Member

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    yea, i figured too that this is not going to work out for me. i have a soldering iron but the thing is really bulky... i don't think you can solder on a PCB with it. So I would need to purchase a new soldering iron plus a set of breakout boards and then i still have to get it done correctly and not break my mod in the progress. I'd love to get this firmware running on my mod, but this could end up getting very expensive for nothing, if i mess up.

    Love the idea, BuzZ3953. Would definitely buy one of these too, after you got yours of course!
     
  5. BuzZ3953

    BuzZ3953 New Member

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    Yep, not to sound old but I shake pretty badly and can't see shit even with bifocals so as much as I would love to I am kinda screwed. I know a guy that has the proper gear I could pay him to do the soldering I guess but he is nuts. I asked him to resolder a power jack onto board before and wanted like forty bucks lol. He can kiss my ass.
     
  6. badrwalid

    badrwalid New Member

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  7. badrwalid

    badrwalid New Member

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  8. gehe05

    gehe05 New Member

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    Found this breakout board for this little project
    [​IMG]
    Would this work?
    Any way I can get a readymade cable for this? (I know it's cheating but getting these parts are a little hard in my part of the world)

    Found this one too? Would this also work?
     
    #148 gehe05, Feb 24, 2021 at 9:55 AM
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021 at 10:02 AM
  9. Quernetz

    Quernetz New Member

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    A5 seems to be connected to the resistor on the other side of the board, but B5 is not connected. The only way to connect B5 to the cable would be soldering direct to the connector and this is really not easy.

    Yes, it seems to be the same one like here: Lost Vape Grus (Quest Chipset)
     
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  10. widyahong

    widyahong New Member

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    Hello everyone, I am widyahong from Indonesia, want to share my experiences.

    I have now successfully replaced the new firmware with Artic Fox. When I first had a new, I thought the firmware was very simple and I didn't like it. But I still bought it because of the good quality and the actual hardware (see the smocking maniac video on youtube). With the standard firmware the steam produced is completely flat with no preheat, this is very annoying when the coil is still cold because there is a very significant lag. Plus the initial bad response, it seems to check the resistance at the start of firing. But the consistency of the battery is good enough this dc-dc converter works fine. It's just that the mod feels very hot, maybe because the pwm frequency used for the mosfet drive is not right or the mosfet driver is less powerful so that there is a loss during mosfet switching, it does not rule out the possibility of inadequate hardware calculations.

    Before I replaced it, I had a consideration because I don't really like stuff that is re-soldered, especially in the 510 connector, which has melted plastic, this is required because to remove the mainboard you have to remove the 510 connector that binds the mainboard to be removed. Then there is no boot loader so you have to short the boot pin to enter the boot loader but this is not a big problem, and the usb connection is not standard, it's also not a big problem for me. I also happen to work in the hardware and software fields.

    Before starting I downloaded all the necessary software that user komara has collected on page 4 post number 70. I have rechecked all the software and I like what he collected because they are suitable. Thank you. But I use another firmware 070221 which is 93kb in size by developer maelstrom2001 on page 7 post number 130 i dont know why, bigger is better lol and it's the newest one even though there is version 080221 but 92.5kb but earlier.

    The way I do it is to use a 60 watt solder at full power (until the solder part heats up reddish) this is so that the solder removal takes a little time so that the spring and plastic parts don't melt. If you want to follow my method make sure the soldering time is really short. And finally this method worked easily I can desolder the 510 connector without making the plastic parts and springs damaged. Make sure the solder tip is lightly coated with tin. And cool the 510 connector again after it is removed by blowing it.

    The desoldering method I did because the soldering on the 510 connector was very difficult because the 510 connector acts as a heat spreader.

    Next I connected the boot pin with in vcc followed by connecting the usb connector. And immediately recognized by windows but not recognized by defuse. It doesn't matter what word is detected in device manager, if it's stm32 blablawhatever means it's already in dfu mode. This is different for each computer after I studied it, so don't rely on the word in the device manager. Back to the problem not recognized by defuse because the driver is not installed you can install the stm32 driver first. And managed to smoothly burn the boot loader. Followed by reconnecting while pressing the firing button to enter save mode. Continue to update the firmware and it works smoothly. I tested it by connecting the battery and pressing the firing button and Artic Fox appeared on the screen.

    When I re-assembled it, I realized that it was true what Smocking maniac said was that the paint scratches easily so please be careful. This happened because it was scratched by the 510 connector itself which was sharply scratched because of the soldering process without the tool holder.

    Once assembled, I made the settings according to taste via mod without a computer. I think I found some bugs in the function in the clicks menu. Maybe some don't need to be repaired because I think it's complicated, just get rid of it. What I feel using the Artic Fox firmware is its very rich features, thanks to all developers. It's just that I feel there is a firing pause, whether it's hardware limitations, but I hope it can be optimized through software. Indeed, several procedures must be done before firing and optimization is also very difficult for the universal created firmware (DNA device firing faster with same battery and atomizer). Then I feel the operating temperature of the mod has decreased drastically, this is very good, did you change the PWM frequency ?. I think the clock feature works really well quite differently from other comments in this thread. I think I have to fix the battery curve because it is a bit incompatible because I think at 50% the dc-dc converter battery is not able to provide the right voltage, is it software, battery, or hardware? I see the current is still below 30 amperes but on the output side, maybe the input side has passed the boost voltage limit? I also encountered an oddity with the brightness suit that it flicker when 96% goes to 100%. Finally, I think the preheat feature is very helpful, but at the beginning it can't give 100% power either because of hardware, battery, or software. It would be better if the combination +/- / f configuration is maximized, such as for the profiles / edit main menu. Because many combinations have not been used. For the record I have never used a configuration in the NToolbox software so I apologize if there is something I don't know.

    I see lostvape does not maximize charging current because the installed shunt resistor is not suitable for 2 amperes so charging is less than 2 amperes even though the charging chip allows up to 2 amperes.

    Can I have the no pass-through charging feature, because the charger chip will protect when the output is over current. I think this feature is quite good and easy. update 26/02/21 i think now its not necessary.. You can lock device before charging..

    Can anyone here explain the dc-dc converter method commonly used in mods? In grus I see using 2 mosfet drivers with 5 mosfets, 3 for switching and 2 for synchronous rectification, is that correct? With the buck boost converter method? With 1 inductor and shunt resistor to measure the output current.

    But why when the battery gets low the dc-dc converter can't provide proper power?

    There is 1 more inductor near the screen what is it for backlight lcd?

    Near the +/- / f buttons there is a linear regulator for the MCU?

    Charging using a 2 ampere buck converter but not maximized.

    Oh yeah I don't use the usb c connector. I did a direct tap on the usb c pin solder. If you want to get right away with data + and data - you can connect it like this. There are 6 output pins on the usb connector c. gnd vccNOTCONNECTED data- data + vcc gnd. Usually red vcc, data- white, data + green, gnd black.

    I hope this can be useful.

    Is there anyone who can help me change my username in this forum? I did a typo. widyahlng should be widyahong.

    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg

    update 26/02/21
    update 1
    i forgot to mention about usb problem, i think update stuck because usb 3.0 ++ because non native usb 3.0 controller like older laptop/motherboard using pcie to usb 3.0 when intel/amd not natively support usb 3.0 directly from intel pch. if you have intel core gen. 2 and earlier you may have this problem. for amd i think every apu++ support usb 3.0 natively.

    update 2
    yeah like i mention above "I think I found some bugs in the function in the clicks menu" is R Resistant and R Smart like mixHup in page post number 152. and tanks for developer Maelstrom realese new firmware 210225 with bug fix in page 8 post number 153. Thanks for all explaination and the firmware. bug brightness also fixed thankyou. and my username fixed too haha.. I think its crazy fast bug fixing haba
     
    #150 widyahong, Feb 25, 2021 at 11:29 AM
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2021 at 12:19 PM
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  11. mixHup

    mixHup New Member

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    [​IMG]

    Forgot to share my pair of Grus's. Many thanks to you all, especially the boys @maelstrom2001 and @Komara!
     
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  12. mixHup

    mixHup New Member

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    Also, believe I found a bug.

    After setting and using the (+) and (-) button combo to reread the coil's/atomizer's resistance, the screen seems to freeze and none of the buttons function. What's more concerning though is that it board seems to be continually firing while in this state, and will only shutdown when the battery is removed. When I first used the button combo to reread resistance, after around a minute I noticed the screen wasn't shutting off and then noticed the atomizer I had attached was hot & being fired. Was able to repeat this bug with both of my Grus's.
     
    #152 mixHup, Feb 25, 2021 at 6:56 PM
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2021 at 7:02 PM
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  13. maelstrom2001

    maelstrom2001 Developer
    NFE Team

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    Hello!
    Confirmed, thank you!
    Please test attached build, seems to be fixed.
     

    Attached Files:

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  14. mixHup

    mixHup New Member

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    Fixed! Truly appreciate the incredibly quick response. You're a gentleman and a scholar.
     
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  15. maelstrom2001

    maelstrom2001 Developer
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    Hello!
    It is H-Bridge buck-boost converter.
    5th MOSFET is a switch between battery and main schematic, a some kind of a killswitch.
    Nope, it's the same as in OEM firmware :) but BBC control algo is not OEM, and
    is the side effect of the used algo - it is provide very soft start and great battery life.
     
  16. VRilsky

    VRilsky New Member

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    This soldering works for me :)
    Thank you very much - I'm happy :)

    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg
     
    #156 VRilsky, Feb 28, 2021 at 4:32 PM
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2021 at 7:25 AM