@maelstrom2001 I was trying to DM you about some modifications I want to make to the Grus firmware. Mainly the ability to turn the display landscape and just show live temp. Seams out of scope for this forum so I would be willing to pay you for your time! Let me know if you’re interested. Not sure how else to contact you...
Articfox firmware almost perfect firmware, several value (of course live coil temp and board temp) can displayed live or calculated based your value inputed (like ohm/watt/volt), just change 3 widget at bottom on 160*80 display, you can set by pressing fire/power button several time (i forgot) or set in nfe tool box in you computer. landscape display available on official firmware, but for lostvape 160*80 display (unofficial) i dont know how important it can be interested developer..
Can update on this, got mine a few days ago and disassembled mine today. The chip does not have any writing on it, but it does look like a STM32F103 clone. Here are some pictures of the board.
Hi @r18duarte , thank you for the pictures. From my point of view it seems to be a LQFP48 package that points to F072 -type controller, right? the F103 should have at least 64 pins, avialable in LQFP64-package, right? Independent from this I have ordered the Thelema Solo yesterday. Since I have experienced the Thelema(dual) and found the stock firmware working not too bad, I decided to give the Solo a try, too. When my Solo will be delivered next week I can open it as well, to provide some more information.
Hello @r18duarte @tim_buktu compare to picture by @S1ngyy https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/l...btb-thelema-centaurus.4905/page-21#post-13863 I think they have same stm32f103, the different just no marking.. I dont really deep about stm32, i wonder they have same stm32 and 48 pin, if ground and vdd vss vbat analog digital pwm can compatible with stm32f072, can we drop replace f103 with f072 already flashed? Yeah i know harded part is we need manually analyzing rearrange gpio pin information maybe with multimeter and replace the mcu. 48pin is far easier than 128pin package like super io bios computer/laptop replacement. Flashing and stm32f072 can be done by sacrifice cheap development board blue pill stm32f072. Forget it just my wild mind.
i think i'll have more time tomorrow i'll be making a cable for it, even if it's for nothing. and could also fully disassamble mine (and desoldering the 510), so it's easier to mess with it. But if the PCB silkscreen means anything, it's the same one as that YK183_QPM102-V3. I could try to get my hands on a SMT-Link to dump the chip and find what is it for sure, but if it is a 103 we would need to wait for maelstorm to make a build for it. And a way to get it on too.
Colleagues, I want to draw your attention to one detail. 072 and 103 in LQFP48 packaging have similar pinout, but with one nuance. To make USB working on 103, the external clock input on PD0 (PD1) is needed. These pins should be connected to the crystal oscillator or clock generator, otherwise USB will not work. I can't figure out if this component is on Solo's PCB. While 072 can use internal oscillator for USB peripheral:
those pins do not have a trace on the pcb unfortunately, there's not a crystal oscillator on the PCB but not sure if there's a clock generator. I didn't take a picture of the back of the pcb. I have full pictures of the front of mine but were too big to upload.
Is it possible to re-flash my grus 2.0 that was having the same overheating issue without taking it fully apart and shorting the pins to use the Ursa bootloader? I guess im wondering if its possible to "Force PID" while updating it and selecting "Ursa" as the device identifier? Is this possible or am I way off? If shorting the pins is the only way, I can take my grus apart again, was mainly just wondering if theres a way around that? Appreciate the help!
Hello! Sorry, the "Force PID" option is not implemented for STM32 devices, so you have to re-flash the bootloader. P. S. If you will wait for a day or two, I'll upload a build with software bugfix.
A hack for Grus 2.0 boxes with old Grus bootloader and problems with overheating Flash attached build, then set Hardware Version to: 1.00 or 1.01 depending on display model for first gen Grus; 1.10 or 1.11 depending on display model for updated Grus (2.0), product ID will be changed to [GRS2]. Please test.
Thanks for this! Is using the Ursa bootloader work the same? I'm having problems getting RPTE STM32 working with the firmware you posted and grus boot.
The new firmware for the grus is awesome. EXT temp sensor barely gets to 100 degrees. Thank you guys. Quick Note: I flashed once and thought it did it, but checked firmware version in configuration and it hadn't changed so make sure to check this when flashing. I just had to do it again and it worked.
Hi all, I believe that pic for the Grus V2 in the original post might incorrectly showing the V1 pic instead. Here is the correct pic for my own V2, which has just been successfully flashed. A curious difference between my V1 and V2 is that the special USB lead seems to need flipping 180° to work from one to another when transferring data. Best wishes to all!
My board looks a little different than what I've seen, can anyone confirm the pins I need to shorten?
Hello mate, yes it does look a bit different doesn't it. Disclaimer here, I'm not an expert so treat the following as possible duff advice! But if that was my board I'd find the most convenient points to short VDD_3 (pin48) to Boot0 (pin 44) as in the attached diagram. This is how I found the short points for my own Grus V2 board. You may even find it's the same points on your own as indicated in my previous post. Good luck!
That was it, thanks a ton. It was the same pins you posted before. After seeing that pinout it clicked, seriously thanks so so much and thanks to everyone in the thread. I couldn't have done it without reading through this thread several times. AF successfully flashed and I just need to reassemble!! woo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09L816S5W/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7 I love my Grus! I want to make a more convenient cable. I found this connector, that also comes with a female breakout board, on amazon. Am I seeing this right? Can I solder to the ground, A5,B5, pads, remove the cap and solder onto its pad to B4 for VCC?
