Unofficial Lost Vape - Quest Chip (Grus, Ursa, Cyborg, BTB, Thelema, Centaurus)

Discussion in 'Suggestions' started by mixHup, Oct 14, 2020.

  1. ZitZdorovo

    ZitZdorovo New Member

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    Hello, I have a problem, the mod is broken, like the above person. I checked the 4r7 resistor and fuse with a multimeter, as well as 1m0. They all turned out to be punctured, and I soldered them out. After that, the board started to turn on, but immediately turns off. What could be the problem ?
    I could upload a video, but I can't, so I'll say: The Lost Tape logo appeared and immediately a black screen, then again and again
     

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  2. widyahong

    widyahong New Member

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    whats the problem before you disassemble this? like what the mod do if you insert the battery? of course before you disassemble..

    there no fuse in this mod.
    for main switcher they have additional protection mosfet, for low power component they have nothing (no fuse, they just little bit blow up).

    1. i think you broke/half unsoldered input/output capacitor for 11 volt boost converter power supply (below pcb).

    2. the worst thing is you desoldered 11 volt boost converter inductor (above capacitor below pcb), this boost converter cant work without this inductor.
    and type of this inductor is little bit fragile and sensitive to overheat if you not carefully desoldered (insulation wire inside).
    This boost converter will take over all power rail, if its fail, other component will not get enough voltage.

    3. the resistor you get is just for mainly current sensing. 4r7 for charge battery (now you cant charge the battery without it), and 1m0 for main switcher (now you can fire the coil without it).

    i think is better you check diode and capacitor for short. (and auxiliary little transistor).

    if you need capacitor value, i have measure several main capacitor in video above (sorry for bad audio and speaking). for inductor you can replace with likely the same because they only low power application.
     
    #562 widyahong, Sep 15, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2022
  3. ZitZdorovo

    ZitZdorovo New Member

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    Сначала он заряжался и просто выключался и больше вообще не включался. Как ни ставлю аккумулятор, он просто не включается. Можешь скинуть скрины, чтобы я мог проверить пробитие диода и конденсатора и вспомогательного транзистора. Так как я русский, то английский плохо понимаю, а переводчик иногда переводит неправильно, заранее спасибо <3
    Я так понимаю 1m0, без него теперь просто жарить будет? Так как он был просто пробит, когда я его измерял. Но он у меня все еще есть, так что я могу припаять его обратно. А то закажу 4р7 и поставлю. Как вы думаете, удастся ли его запустить?
     
  4. widyahong

    widyahong New Member

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    english is not my native language too, i revised my writing above so you can re-read more accurate and easier.

    possibility is always there. but maybe its not easy for you.
    you dont need to buy any component for now, just reassembling the component to the original place, from my sight no component with polarity, you just need to resolder it, make sure connect perfectly and not touching other component. i think its better to you clean up the excess solder from pcb and component. check the inductor (if open meaning it break).

    1m0 resistor require special multimeter that can read very low resistant, if you probing with normal multi meter its just say shorted, and this type of resistor is not easy to broke. and 4r7 resistor i think its fine too.

    this is the cheat for you to judging whether this mod is still worth it or not: inject 3.3 volt to low voltage drop out regulator (ldo). i forgot for the LDO pin out, but to make it easier, just inject to capacitor after the LDO the chance you make mistake is almost nothing. you can use 2 serial AA/AAA battery, always connect negative to ground so if you wrong inject voltage polarity there a chance not broke your component.
    if the mod show normal interface from lcd its ok to continue repair. if something hot spot, that component maybe need to be replace.

    there some possibility why the logo lost vape show and gone, first hiccup protection from voltage regulator because something suck power to much, the other is your microcontroller failed or protection inside the microcontroller program kick in(that i dont know).

    im not always online, may not be able to reply to the next message, but for more advance guide you need to post picture of 2 side pcb in here.
     
  5. ZitZdorovo

    ZitZdorovo New Member

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    Hello, here is an image of the board. Sorry it took so long.

     

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  6. widyahong

    widyahong New Member

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    lost vape.jpg

    this is not proper guide, but i hope easy to understand. the marking is not mean to be a component marking! C is not equal to Capacitor and D is not equal to Diode! its just marking for you to index/locate the component from the picture.

    First you need to check 3.3 volt power rail,
    marking 1. there are 3 bypass/blocking diode that coming from 3 power source : A (5 volt usb), B (11 volt boost converter), and C (4.2 volt battery or charging chip), normal diode open at reverse, and have forward voltage drop around 0.2-0.3 (because its likely schottky), its can be called fail if shorted (0.0 volt) at forward and reverse. you can probe directly on the board.

    *i dont really confident about diode pin in source, maybe some diode only input from battery only, and maybe some diode input from chargging chip only and the usb power directly to charging chip, it think its not really important for this poblem.

    marking 2. input capacitor, check for shorted (normally short if fail), if open circuit its make 3.3 volt not stable but not really important because at input.

    marking 3. 3.3 volt low voltage drop out voltage regulator (LDO/LVDO) this will supply 3.3 volt for all component that needed like microcontroller, eeprom ,display, opamp, transistor, etc from 12 volt+++ to 3.3 volt. its can fully fail or fail to supply current demand, because this ldo failure or the output is to high current demand (maybe some short/fail at the output it can be chip, diode, or capacitor).

    marking 4. output capacitor, check for shorted (normally short if fail), if open circuit its make 3.3 volt not stable but its important because at output regulated 3.3 volt.

    you can inject 3.3 volt to around 2.75 volt at marking 4 capacitor, connect negative power supply to ground so if you inject at wrong poin its just short your power supply not the component at the board. its better if you can determine the polality before with multimeter. its easy, just check where the ground pin at capacitor.

    if the mod display run the user interface normally you can continue to trouble shooting, if not (keep restarting) its up to you to continue trouble shooting or not.

    for next trouble shooting:
    marking A is usb port power input that can supply the board without battery, if cant, maybe there usb resistor is open near usb port, or something after is shorted, can be capacitor/diode/chargging chip.

    marking B is 11 volt boost converter, it powering the ldo if the microcontroller is running (not in sleep mode), if screen is on = mcu is running. to make this boost converter running there require external componen B1 is inductor/coil B2 high speed diode and of course B3 and B4 the output and input capacitor. normally if this circuit fail, you cant firing the mod because mosfet cant saturate/mosfet driver doest not have input voltage. check for shorted capacitor!.

    Marking C is charging circuit with synchronous buck converter integrated they require external component C1 inductor/coil C2 shunt resistor for detect current when charging C3 C4 is input and output capacitor, maybe. normally if this circuit fail, no you just cant chargging. check for shorted capacitor!.

    all D Marking is for main switcher for firing your coil wire at output.
    D1 lowside input protection if something wrong, driven by microcontroller.
    D2 input group (3) capacitor, it can be fail short circuit! check.
    D3 output group (5) capacitor, it can be fail short circuit! check.
    D4 inductor/coil. its normal to be shorted.
    D5 lowside high side mosfet for buck converter. they have synchronous mosfet driver from the back to drive the mosfet.
    D6 lowside high side mosfet for boost converter. they have synchronous mosfet driver from the back to drive the mosfet.
    D7 shunt resitor for current detection, its normal to be shorted. they have opamp from the back to amplify signal.
    E1 you know is that :D
    E2 eeprom

    try to check all capacitor for shorted after 3.3 volt for your trouble even they are little. and maybe diode.
     
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  7. ZitZdorovo

    ZitZdorovo New Member

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    In general, I checked the input and output capacitors D2 and D3, only D3 is broken, also 4 and 3 have no penetration, but LDO (3) in the middle (I mean where 3 contacts are) of the leg there is a penetration
     
  8. Alanghi

    Alanghi New Member

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    Hi, I'm trying to load articfox to my grus v1 but I can't get it to recognize my device, and I followed the forum instructions to the letter without success. I don't think my cable is badly soldered. I do it on a usb 2.0 port. it may be that it does it in windows 10 is the problem.