please still using the latest bootloader and firmware above, this is version 1 noting to change hardware version this is version 2 you need change hardware version to 1.01 zoom picture above, see the user interface display nothing bad happen if you false choice hardware version, you can try first, if you have problem with display you can change hw version later.
lostvape gruss/ursa and articfox work great buck boost converter fuction correctly, according to the specification limitation, which is 100 watts, if you want to use a maximum voltage of 7 volts (in 100w), then the wire resistance must be at 0.5 ohms, if it is below 0.5 ohms, the voltage will be limited by 100 watts, if it is above 0.5 ohms then the wattage will be limited by the voltage. of course there are other limitations such as cut out battery voltage, max current, etc. and now I understand why Articfox does a very soft start, if without a soft start the mod easly will trigger cut out low battery protection. but sometime i feel trigger low battery cut out more frequently with temperature control mode but in watttage mode everything is normal, i dont know why maybe just my feel because i dont have modified usb c for monitoring device so i use lowwer wattage for compensate it.
If I understand these graph correctly, Grus is reading the resistance a little high until 0.5 Ohm. Voltage boost is working from about 0.5 Ohm and up. Somewhere before 1 Ohm, it can’t deliver anymore the voltage required. I think the sweet spot is somewhere between 0.5-1 Ohm for optimum battery utilization.
I got the v1 grus mod after seeing this thread . Amazing work done here can I do this if i have minimal knowledge and skill in soldering or am I gonna brick my mod? is there a video showing detailed steps of the whole process?
I wanna add that i think this mod is not very accurate when reading resistance, it reads it lower than it should be also I feel like it it takes longer than aegis solo to heat the coil for the first puff sorry guys i'm not experienced and i dont know if these observation s are correct
Thank you for all! I finally managed to update mine mod to. I have one question for the middle button cannot we assign some function?
Nice to see this community coming together to make AF work on Lost Vape mods. Is it because people like Lost Vape or just like a challenge? Seems out of all the different brands making mods, I'm surprised to see enthusiasm for modding the Lost Vape Grus and Ursa, which seem very capable mods on their own, but I guess they aren't the DNA chipped mods from them, so I can see why. Anyways I was wondering if the same process is required for other mods using Type C or if it is just mods using the Quest chipset? I also wonder if there will be a specific version of AF or RP for Type C mods since that seems to be the standard everyone is moving towards. And like someone said, it's becoming harder to find PCs with USB 2.0 anymore. I came here because I have a Lost Vape BTB which is running the same Quest chipset. Is there a comprehensive list of all mods running on it and which will need to follow the advice found on this thread? I assume it should be the same, but am unsure.
There are still PCIe cards with USB 2.0 ports (starts~$15) and mini PCIe to USB 2.0 (starts~$2) and they are listed at Aliexpress, Amazon and in several online PC hardware stores
Help! So I bought a Grus, pretty sure it's a V1, came with just the mod. Built the USB cable, flashed the bootloader, and then installed Arctic Fox per the instructions here in this thread. Well everything went off without a hitch, except my screen is completely blank when I turn on the mod. You can see the backlight fire up, but I can't get anything to display on the screen. What am I doing wrong here?
hi @CharlieDestroyerOfTacos did you disconnect the display from the PCB? If so: Check if the flat ribbon cable is proper aligned with the contacts and that the black latch is back in the locked position (flat, paralell to pcb). !-> be carefull with the cable <-!
Hey can anyone explain a little bit about dna board? why they have 2 inductor instead only one for syncronous rectification buck boost converter? they try to make stand alone buck and boost converter? thankyou. the board have normal 4 mosfet, and exclude about chargging inductor ya Hey its about troubleshooting, you can connect to computer again and open the ntoolbox.exe there are much tool you have, the first you can use device monitoring, if any information from device monitor i think just bad contact / hardware failure (display) or partial flashing failure, or you can use firmware updater tools or articfox configuration for knowing information about the ntoolbox can communicate with your lost vape grus with articfox firmware.
The cable is for sure properly inserted to the ribbon connector. There's a little white line that you line up with the line on the pcb, it's dead on, but still no picture. Backlight only. I immediately took mine apart to put AF on it without actually testing everything first, so it's quite possible the LCD was defective to begin with. I don't suppose anyone on here has an extra Grus screen, or maybe a broken/bricked unit for parts. Otherwise, I now have a nifty, overpriced paperweight
Hello! You can use display for Evolv DNA 75C (250C) or similar: https://aliexpress.com/item/33008278658.html
Hiya, @maelstrom2001 just for those who think of buying a USB-C plug: wouldn't that be one to go for, it seems to have B5 and A5 pads -> here the link to the item on Aliexpress
I finally got around to following your previously mentioned instructions. I just needed to figure out how to change the updater to 1.01. And after reading your later post I finally figured it out Happy to report that it fixed the problem! Many many thanks!! You guys seriously make DNA’s look bad. Thank you again
