Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Suggestions' started by mixHup, Oct 14, 2020.
Thank you very much! Tomorrow I'll buy a new cable and try again.
@copyman thank you very much!
Watched your review on Ursa, and... it looks very solid, and most probably it can be flashed as well. Yes, its firmware looks much better than the Grus firmware, and there is no urgent need to change it, but why not. Also interested in Ursa, especially with RBA, so perhaps will be continued
Hello, great news!
And if it will run DFU mode, please make a dump with DfuSe Demo, it will be very interesting to see it. Also noticed that Lost Vape place external EEPROM (in Grus it has landing pattern on the PCB, but it is not installed), it will also be a nice bonus.
It seems that in this box it will be easy to put MCU in DFU mode as well.
Probably, here is the pads that should be shorted:
And just in case and for comparison - here is Grus pinout restored from OEM firmware:
Exactly the same pins I thought to give in short. Thanks for the information, I will do the test tonight.
Thank you all so much for your help. I managed to flash the mod. Please tell me, will the firmware still be updated?
There they are ...
So close but seems so far away
what do I do? When I plug it in I get “usb device not recognized?”
Are you trying to turn the USB-C connector upside down? Looking at the picture, the neighboring pins are also short ...
When soldering, you closed the 4 and 5 pins. They cannot be closed. I've been soldering for three days. I threw out three cables. It worked today.
Perfect, thank you!
If the device is interesting to the community, I'll order it and will add support.
Yep. In first - to resolve issues found by owners. Then perhaps it will grow up to Quest branch, including Ursa
Found some interesting connectors: https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000034683378.html
It seems that CC1 and CC2 pins are routed to pull-down resistors, so it will be easily converted to custom cable with removing these resistors and soldering D+ & D- wires to their pads which are not shorted (closer to jack).
Update: confirmed, works fine, but also had to cut two traces between resistors and capacitor for easy soldering. Now it looks much better with housing.
My GRUS is now running with ArcticFox.
It takes a bit of getting used to, but thanks again to the developers
Where did you find this board? This looks like something even I could handle!
I only find those tiny breakout boards and I'm pretty sure I would mess up with those.
Added battery indicator when the clock on the main screen is off.
I just ordered a connector from germany and will prove when I've got it. Am I right with the CC connections?
Remove the 2 resistors (x) and connect CC1 to D+ and CC2 to D- like in the picture?
Hello, thanks for finding and sharing this.
i ordered 2 from Ebay, thx for sharing Quernetz
i hope to have my Grus run on ArcticFox this Weekend.
Hello. Will these be the correct connections?