Hello! It is H-Bridge buck-boost converter. 5th MOSFET is a switch between battery and main schematic, a some kind of a killswitch. Nope, it's the same as in OEM firmware but BBC control algo is not OEM, and is the side effect of the used algo - it is provide very soft start and great battery life.
Yesss! Just grabbed the ursa today for this exact reason. Hoping this will be doable without soldering! Looking forward to this!
Greetings! Long time user (Pico 75, Pico 21700, and Reuleaux variants) but just now made an account to throw in my support for the Ursa. I just tonight found out that the Grus can be modded so totally looking forward to the Ursa as well. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Is the Ursa going to require a custom made cable to install AF? I really want one of these 2 mods with AF but I have never soldered anything that whole thread about the Grus is over my head
Yep, the same as for Grus. P. S. added dump of my Ursa 'cause it is different from provided by @copyman P. P. S. merging Grus and Ursa topics.
Lost Vape Quest Chipset Spoiler: Reviews by Smoking Maniac Spoiler: Custom cable We need two parts: USB-A jack and USB Type-C jack. See their pinouts: We have to solder 4 wires: +5V from USB-A to VBUS pins of the Type-C. GND from USB-A to GND pins of the Type-C. D+ from USB-A to CC1 pin of the Type-C. D- from USB-A to CC2 pin of the Type-C. The last two wires can be swapped, i. e. does not matter which D pin should be soldered to CC pin, as I wrote earlier, if device is not detected, just turn Type-C jack by 180 degs. Spoiler: BOOT0 - GRUS Spoiler: BOOT0 - URSA Spoiler: Download DfuSe Demo STMicroelectronics site or mirror Guide by @Komara: post #70 Making custom USB cable by @tim_buktu: post #245 First, you have to flash the bootloader. Take a box apart, shorten marked pins and connect PCB to PC. Note: use USB2.0 ports. Start DfuSe Demo, it should detect device in DFU mode. Now pins can be released. Download, unpack and choose appropriate bootloader for your device and flash it with DfuSe Demo (Choose -> Upgrade). Now firmware update can be done with NToolbox Firmware Updater (with STM32 support), and you can assembly the box. When you flash ArcticFox first time, put box in Safe Mode: press and hold Fire button before connecting to PC. Starting from today (March 13, 2021), ArcticFox builds for Grus and Ursa are unified. Updates Build 210331: Alternative display driver support (set Hardware Version to 1.01); Infoline icon disappear when Puff Time overlay is enabled. Build 210313: Lost Vape Ursa Quest support; Charging control (enable/disable).
On the STM32 is it only the logo that doesn't work due to memory limitations? or are there other functions that are also dropped, for example the skin/logo? (I haven't tested it but i have read some one in forum mention about that) I ask like this because the novoton and stm32 platforms share the ntoolbox software but some functions haven't worked or have been dropped for the stm32 platform, is it true? Are there any bad effects if you try a feature that is not available on the stm32 platform on ntoolbox? I think the auto firing feature doesn't work on the firing button + other button (combine) shortcut but it works on the repeat firing button shortcut (update bold text information 230321 some body ask in page 10). I think it is useful for dryburn for the auto firing feature but it is not a priority. (update 20/03/21) i forgot to mention, puff time bug on, after puff from screen turn off, the icon is blank. what is the difference between articfox and redpanda? lostvape not realese downloadable firmware, but you still can develope for this.. its just enough dump file for develop articfirmware? Thankyou for all developer i really appreciate, sorry for my curiosity
ill pay like 50$-75$ and the shipping if someone makes me a cord. i dont have the solder ability for this lol
You could try this. I'm not sure it can get any easier (other than premade). https://elabbay.myshopify.com/produ...et-breakout-board-elabguy?variant=30222584259
yes a yes wow!! i actually came here to edit my comment to state that i said F*** it and went out and bought a new soldering tool, some flux and solder . going to give it the ole college try. if i end up breaking too many wires ill definitely go this route. Much appreciated
go to the evolve US site. the Vape act is putting a stop to all direct to consumer sales on the 26th, pretty good discounts right now https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna60
I successfully installed Arctic Fox onto my Grus and it works properly, but the background color of my screen is white instead of black, any idea why?
Probably dataflash is corrupted at color scheme data field. Use RPTE (the second download link, STM32 branch) from here to fix/edit theme: https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/red-panda-info.2192/page-2#post-9758 Or do dataflash reset.
Whats the worst thing that can happen If i incorrectly solder the wires to the USB-C? That thing is soooooo tiny. I probably bridged CC2 with something else.
hi all, after a while, I'm stepping in here again and now joyfully surprised about that new project. Having read this thread, ordered the GRUS immediately and I am really excited to get it. This will be the first device that is going to be taken apart right out of the box I'm using several devices with AF running started with eVIC VTC, Coboid, Primo, P80, Ultex, Espion Solo and all are working great. Thank you all, who make this possible, for your amazing work, I really appreciate that. For making the cable I ordered a set of 5 breakout boards with cover on amazon. I will report how this works, probably I can provide some of the cables for those who are not familiar with soldering.
