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Discussion in 'Suggestions' started by Surfparadise, Jun 15, 2018.
Yes, download and flash it as described in this post.
No, use only NFE Tools v190718 from this link.
I tried two different PCs but my rsq does not get detected, even using Zadig and trying all driver types, any suggestion to make it work ?
День добрый, подскажите, пожалуйста, показывает ли ваша прошивка Свага сопротивление онлайн, так сказать? Как Арктикфокс на Пико 75
Добрый день. Да, это полноценный ArcticFox. За исключением Logo, разве что - в ветке STM32 его нет и не будет.
Спасибо, но все равно не получается. Демо не видит мой мод, хотя он коннектится с компом
Зажмите Fire + Menu и посмотрите версию hardware. Если это SPCBAT, то шансов нет
Hello and thanks for the great software!
I use it on Pico 25 without problems.
But now, on Swag 1gen, I followed the steps explained here but DfuSe Demo doesn't recognize the Swag.
(The hardware version is 1.03; TPCBATG-2; 01.24.2018)
Do I need to download additional drivers and all the archives under the post with the steps?
I would appreciate your help
You have to install DfuSe Demo, and it contains driver.
Check Windows Device Manager, in the section "Universal Serial Bus controllers" should be "STM Device in DFU Mode". If no, probably there are problems with USB stuff (cables, connectors, ports etc.).
Just out of curiosity, did anyone check if the Reverent Delta board can be booted in DFU mode?
Hello to all, first thank you very much for your work !
I have a 1st version SWAG, firmware OK.
When I plug it into my computer, it's installed as "DFU in FS mode" and not detected by DFUSE demo.
It seems the wrong drivers are installed as it's not detected as "STM32 device in DFU mode"
Where can I find the good drivers ? (I have a very old laptop under win XP)
Thank you for your help !
As far as I was able to find out there are only Vista drivers there (!discontinued! Link). For XP I couldn't find any.
Thanks for your help anyway
Try DfuSeDemo 3.0.5: http://wiki.amperka.ru/_media/js:ide:dfu-firmware:en.stsw-stm32080.zip (uninstall 3.0.6 first).
Also try to update drivers itself:
Thank you very much Maelstrom2001.
I'll try this as soon as possible and will report !
You all do a great job here, congratulations
Just before I start 2 questions: 1. Do I make a cut at the purple line? and 2. Do I have to scrape of the green paint in order to solder in the resistor? I am going to document the steps for a 'how to' like Komara did in the Grus/Ursa thread and I just want to avoid to put something wrong in there
Thank you, it would be very useful.
I found another photo of the PCB in original state, so I'll try to explain what exactly we have to do:
BOOT0 pin marked with red arrow is connected to common grounding copper fill at the left side, it is marked with silk screen white lines on the PCB. Cut the fill at the place where the magenta line. Scratch green solder mask at the places marked with yellow rectangles to open copper and tin them, i. e. make "pads" for resistor. Before soldering the resistor check resistance between these pads with multimeter, they are should not be shorted. So, upper "pad" will be connected to BOOT0 pin, lower "pad" still connected to GND circuit. And when the new resistor will be placed, to put MCU in DFU mode we have to pull up BOOT0 pin (connecting upper "pad" to VDD).
Use any convenient resistor with nominal from 3,3 kOhm to 10 kOhm.
Thank you for the advice
I am waiting on the delivery of the 0805 resistors i did order, snail mail from China to Ireland... I have none at hand
Again just to double check : I guess you keep your files in your post updated so in the 'how to' for the Armour Pro I can link that. And would you prefer me to post the 'how to' here or open up a new thread, eg. ~'Step by step Armour Pro How to'
Yep, that post is actual. Please post your guide here, then I'll move it to dedicated thread as well as other guides on Lost Vape mods. Thank you
Unfortunately, replacing the bootloader went a hard way with total disassembling, using soldering iron and ST-Link programmer.
Recently I traded my Pulse II for two Pulse 80W (one with dead display) to build another squonk running AF. Display was replaced, the bodies were cleaned and serviced and now the first of them is on testing.
I doubt the guide on Pulse 80W should be published. It is really nice BF mod, but you have to be a maniac (in a good way) to do it